Merano, located in the Etsch Valley, is one of the most popular towns in South Tyrol with its Mediterranean climate. Holidaymakers and guests of the spa town enjoy the southern flair, to which the orchards and vineyards in the surrounding area contribute just as much as the famous "Gardens of Trauttmannsdorff Castle", the centre of attraction for flower and plant lovers from all over the world.
The holiday region Meraner Land also includes alpine destinations such as the Schnals Valley, the Passeier Valley and the Ulten Valley. Less well-known than these is a quiet idyll, the Deutschnonsberg. It is almost an insider tip for nature lovers, friends of original cuisine, hikers, bikers and, in general, for people who are looking for relaxation and distance from everyday life in an oasis of peace.
Those travelling with their own vehicle can best reach the Deutschnonsberg region on the state road 238 via Lana - with its fruit tree museum worth seeing - and the Gampen Pass, situated at an altitude of 1500 metres. The uphill driving time from Lana by car is about half an hour to the main village of the region called "Unsere Liebe Frau im Walde - St. Felix". It is one of three German-speaking communities in the Nonstal valley, collectively known as Deutschnonsberg.
Gentle landscapes between South Tyrol and Trentino
Here on the border between South Tyrol and Trentino, the different cultural influences make for an exciting melange, which is reflected in particular in the independent gastronomy and agricultural products. Holidaymakers can thus expect the best of two worlds. If that's not a promise...
Deutschnonsberg stretches from the Mendel ridge with its spectacular rock faces to the Laugen area with its panoramic view of the Dolomites. On numerous, partly lonely paths around the four villages of the high valley, you can explore the untouched natural landscape of the region with its forests and pastures all the way into the Brenta Adamello Massif. Mountain bikers will also find ideal terrain for their tours here.
Waterfalls, canyons and forest lake
The Felix waterfall is undoubtedly one of the highlights of the region. It is one of the highest in the whole of South Tyrol and plunges 75 metres vertically down from a rocky outcrop in the midst of larch forests. From St. Felix, the hiking trail to the waterfall leads through meadows, woods and clearings, finally over 170 steps to a viewing platform. The spectacular natural spectacle can best be marvelled at from here. A newly built bridge over the stream in the valley leads back to St. Felix.
Hikers can also enjoy a special natural experience in the Rio Sass Canyon, which is one of the most spectacular in the country. The canyon, hollowed out by the flow of a torrent, is located in the middle of the small village of Fondo. The canyon cuts the centre of the upper Val di Non in two. Since 2001, the route has been relatively effortless thanks to stairs, footbridges and ladders, as long as overcoming 348 steps can be called that... Those who embark on the discovery tour, surrounded by swirling floods, waterfalls and large erosion cauldrons, the "giant pots", encounter fascinating formations such as stalactites and stalagmites as well as red and green algae, various mosses and ferns.
In the neighbouring municipalities of Cloz, Romallo and Dambel, the Novella River Park is located in the gorge of the torrent of the same name. On the 3.5 km guided trail, you can experience the interesting geology of the area in the coolness of the forest. Suitable footwear and weatherproof clothing are part of the required equipment, and a head for heights is also an important prerequisite.
Surrounded by grassy soils and larch forests, an idyllic forest lake, the Felixer Weiher, stretches out at 1600 metres. From the signposted car park in St. Felix, it can be reached in just under an hour after an easy hike.
The lake, which is under nature conservation and rich in fish, is open for bathing and is a popular bathing lake for both locals and visitors in high summer. On their way around the lake, visitors can learn a lot of interesting facts about the fauna and flora in and around the lake from information boards. It is not unusual to meet wild animals or find rare flowers and mushrooms along the way. The Felixer Alm, which has been awarded the "Echte Qualität am Berg" ("Genuine Quality on the Mountain") award, and the Waldruhe Inn offer cosy refreshment stops not far from the lake.
Regional specialities
For a long time, mainly poor mountain farmers settled in the Deutschnonsberg area, whose staple food was the potato. However, as a point of attraction for many pilgrims, gastronomy has always played a major role. So today you can still find down-to-earth inns offering the best dishes made from regional products. Resourceful farmers and restaurateurs recognised the added value of this unspoilt landscape early on and refined the products of the region into real delicacies. Small food cycles and the Italian influences from nearby Trentino contribute to the region's excellent reputation among friends and connoisseurs of original Alpine or Alpine-Mediterranean cuisine. Meat from lamb and grazing cattle, herbs and poppy seeds, as well as special cheeses are much appreciated traditional products of this region.
Culinary protagonists: dandelion, radicchio, grana, "Laugenrind "During the spring festival from mid-April to mid-May, everything revolves around the health-promoting dandelion.
For the first time in spring 1996, the unique "Dandelion Weeks" took place on Deutschnonsberg with the support of the herb priest H. Joseph Weidinger. They are one of the oldest series of events with a culinary focus in South Tyrol. Dandelion has been used in herbal medicine for centuries, it is considered to purify the blood and stimulate the metabolism, but it can also be found in numerous culinary creations.
Due to its altitude and the special climatic conditions, the area is an ideal cultivation area forRadicchio. This lettuce is popular in northern Italy in different varieties. In particular, the winter variety of Radicchio di Treviso, which is considered by connoisseurs to be the noblest of the different varieties, thrives on the Deutschnonsberg.
From the end of September to the end of October, winter radicchio, rich in vitamin C and minerals, becomes the culinary star of restaurants and inns. During the "Radicchio Days", chefs create extraordinary delicacies. Gourmets enjoy the bittersweet delicacy raw as a salad, as a vegetable garnish, gratinated or grilled. The dumplings filled with radicchio, dumplings, pasta and desserts are also delicious.
Another speciality of the region is "Trentingrana", a slowly maturing semi-fat hard and grated cheese made from cow's milk. Locals like to refer to it as Nonsberg's answer to Parmesan. Grana from the Po Valley is particularly well-known, but due to strict quality guidelines, Trentingrana from Deutschnonsberg is now one of the best cheeses in the whole of Italy. Only high-quality local hay and special grain mixtures are fed to the dairy cows. Up to 900 litres of cow's milk are needed to produce a loaf weighing around 40 kilos.
In the cooperative cheese dairies such as the Fondo or Castelfondo dairies, cheese production is still strongly characterised by manual labour, and only natural ingredients are used: In order to promote mountain farming in Deutschnonsberg, Val d'Ultimo and Val Venosta, the EU Leader and quality programme with the brand name "LaugenRind" was launched a few years ago. LaugenRind cattle are South Tyrolean dairy calves and cattle raised in a species-appropriate manner, predominantly of the alpine breed Tiroler Grauvieh. Genuine Laugen cattle must be born at the foot of Mount Laugen (2434 metres) and graze on alpine pastures in summer. Chemical feed additives and synthetic feed as well as genetic engineering are an absolute taboo for the approximately 50 mountain farms.
Instead, they stand for sustainable agriculture, ethical production, short transport routes, regional added value, healthy nutrition and authentic enjoyment. The culinary offer includes the whole range of fresh meat as well as the refinement into exclusive gourmet products for private use and gastronomy.
Text: Peter Grett
Images:
Lead story: Hannes Niederkofler Photography
Image 1 and 2 Waterfall: Hannes Niederkopfler Photography
Image 3 Weiher: Alex Filz
Images 4-6: Dandelion menu: Bruno Battodetti; Dandelion collector www.renegamper.com; Dandelion Meadow: Tourist Office Deutschnonsberg
Image 7 Radicchio: Hannes Niederkopfler Photography
Image 8 Grana: Grana : www.renegamper.com
Image 9 Grauvieh: Hannes Niederkopfler Photography